Ford 2011 Explorer

Engine Specifications
	3.5L V6
Drive type	Front-Wheel Drive (std.) / Intelligent 4WD (opt.)
Engine type	3.5L Twin independent Variable Camshaft Timing (TiVCT) V6
Transmission	6-speed automatic (std.) / 6-speed SelectShift Automatic (opt.)
Final drive ratio	3.16 (FWD) / 3.39 (4WD)
Horsepower (net @ rpm) (Ford projected)	283 @ 6500
Torque (lb.-ft @ rpm) (Ford projected)	252 @ 4100
Compression ratio	10.8: 1
Valve lifters	Direct acting mechanical bucket
Induction System	Naturally aspirated
Fuel delivery	Sequential multi-port electronic fuel injection
Exhaust	Quasi dual exhaust with chrome tips
Engine block type	Cast aluminum
Cylinder head material	Cast aluminum

Chassis Specifications
Front suspension	MacPherson strut front suspension with 32mm front stabilizer bar
Front shocks	Gas-pressurized twin tube
Rear suspension	Multi-link independent rear suspension with 22mm rear stabilizer bar
Rear shocks	Gas-pressurized twin tube
Brakes	Power 4-wheel disc with Anti-lock Braking System (ABS)
Steering	Electronic Power-Assisted Steering (EPAS)

Towing Specifications
Optional Class III Trailer Tow Package
Configuration	Axle Ratio	GCWR	Max Loaded Trailer Weight
3.5L TiVCT V6 FWD	3.16	9920	5000
3.5L TiVCT V6 4WD	3.39	10096	5000

Price ; $28,995

Engine Rad Run Hot

Engine rad run hot is problem when the engine overheat because over load, carrying boat, sport o or something heavy. This problem is one of chronic overheating - that is the engine overheats. The red temperature light may come on chronically, the engine temp light may be permanently over to the right hand side or it may be worse in that the rad either needs coolant and antifreeze fluid replenishment all the time or worse yet the rad "boils over".
Simply put the thermostat impedes water flow when the engine is cold, to allow for faster warm and heating of cold engines.The cooling systems thermostat is in closed position when cool and opens up to allow for cooling system water circulation when warmed up. The engine will not "blow up" if the cooling system thermostat is removed.

Your Car Smoke

You can diagnose problem in your car by the color smoke, and maybe any problem if you start your car in the morning and the exhaust smoking.
- If your exhaust is  water vapor,or blowing white smoke do not be alarmed as that is normal in cold weather, but it should not continue as the car warms up. If it continues to smoke when the car is warm it may be time to trouble shoot. It is possible your transmission fluid is entering the valve intake manifold through the vacuum modulator, which means the vacuum modulator will need to be replaced. Another possibility is the cycle head gasket is cracked or worn and will need to be replaced or resurfaced. Finally you could have a cracked engine block that needs to be replaced.

- If black smoke may or may not be accompanied by other symptoms like a rough running engine or an engine that misfires. Check your carburetor choke to see if it is closed and needs replacement. It could also be a leaky fuel injector that needs to be replaced or something as easy as a dirty air filter that needs to be changed out. Finally your mechanic can check to see if your distributor cap and rotor ignition module are bad and need to be replaced.

- If your car is smoking gray or blue smoke when you start it up in the morning and the smoke doesn't disappear after the car is warmed up there are a few possible causes. Your engine pistons could be worn and need to be replaced or your engine valve or engine valve seals may be worn and need to be replaced. None of these are do-it-yourself projects, but it should give you a starting place to start looking with your mechanic.

- If you have the additional car symptom of burning more oil than normal you will likely notice when your oil is low in between oil changes. You may or may not notice that your engine is a little less powerful as a result. The cause could be your PVC system is not working right and your mechanic will need to replace the PCV valve. It is also a good idea to have your mechanic check your engine compression to determine the condition of your engine.

How to Change Out Your Brake Pads

Braking is the single most important action that your car performs. It doesn't matter how fast your car can accelerate in however many seconds. A beast of a machine that can do 0-60mph in less than 4 seconds can be the most awesome way to put yourself into a wall if your brakes don't work properly. As important as this function is, our brakes sometimes fail, usually due to neglect.
In order to make sure that your brakes always work, you must maintain maximum friction pad depth to insure full performance of the braking system. In other words, you have to change your brake pads. Before you change them, you need to know what kind of brakes you have. There are two different types of braking systems: disc brakes and drum brakes. Both have their advantages and disadvantages, but we won't get into that. You just need to know that, on most cars, disc brakes are on the front and drum brakes are on the back. And since 90% of the brake pads that you'll ever change in your life will be on the front; that will be our area of focus.
Disc brakes are the most effective system for stopping a vehicle. They utilize a caliper to apply the brake pads on either side of the rotor to halt wheel motion. Unless blocked by wheel rims, you can see them through the spokes on your wheels. This is the first way that you can tell if you need to do a brake reline. If the pads are less than 1/4 inch thick, you'll need to replace them soon. If they're less than 1/8 inch thick, get out the tools right then and there. The other way to tell that you need to reline your brakes is by listening to them. Noise-making devices are built into the pads to let you know when they need changing. If you hear a screeching sounds when you apply the brakes, you're due for a reline. If it sounds more like metal scraping metal, you've probably already damaged your rotor and need to replace the pads immediately if not the rotor as well.
First, you need a basic tool kit, a tire iron, a jack and jack stands and new brake pads. Consult your owner's manual on what kind your vehicle needs. Once you have all of those things, we can begin.

1. Park your car on flat, smooth ground, preferably in the shade. This procedure will take a while.
2. Once it is in park with the parking brake on, block off the tires and loosen the lug nuts on your wheels with the tire iron. Don't take the lugs nuts all of the way off.
3. Jack up your car and move the jack stands into place. Release the car slowly off of the jack and onto the jack stands. Make sure that they are in good condition and working properly. Your hands will be under the car. Do this for both sides so that you can change both front brake pads without having to jack up the car twice. The front end is what we're after, so make sure both jack stands are set to equal heights and focused at the front of the vehicle.
4. Once the car is up, remove the wheels. Work on one wheel at a time and use the other as a reference to ensure a proper rebuild. The caliper is designed to squeeze the brake pads against the rotor in order to create friction and halt motion. The brake pads hover on either side of the metal plate. They attach to the inside of the caliper with either clips, bolts or both. The rotor is the shiny metal disc that you should be able to see yourself in. If the surface of the rotor is not even vaguely shiny, it should be serviced or replaced.
5. Remove the bolts holding the caliper in place. Slide it out and away from the rotor gently. Now inspect the inside of the caliper. The pads will be held in place by a bolt or a series of clips. Remove the bolts, or clips, and remove the pads. Inspect the pads for excessive wearing to help you define the amount of wear on the rotor. If they're worn all the way to the bolt, look for excessive scarring and scoring on the rotor. Run your fingernails along the surface of the rotor, careful to make sure that it's not still hot. If the rotor has any grooves in it at all, it must be replaced. If you're short on money, a mechanic can "turn" the motor for you; this is shaving off the metal until it's once again smooth and shiny. However, this is not recommended because it reduces the rotors thermal capacity and may shorten your brakes lifespan. If your rotor is fine, let's move on.
6. Remove the pads from the caliper. Use a small amount of grease to lubricate the BACK of the new brake pads. This grease goes between the metal plate that attached to the caliper and the back of the pads. If you skip this, you'll hear an unearthly screeching every time you apply the brakes. Once you've lubed the back of the pad, attach it and the metal plate back to the caliper.
7. Now, you pretty much just put everything back. Be sure to gently replace the parts, as the rotor and other parts of your braking system are semi-sensitive.

Brake relining can be one of the single most important pieces of maintenance that you can provide to your vehicle. If you're unsure of how to complete this procedure correctly, take it to a professional. As I said at the outset, braking is the single most important action that your car performs. Proper replacement of your braking systems components is essential to avoiding emergency roadside assistance.
By Brock Frye

Mitsubishi Eclipse Spyder 2011

GS Sport is equipped with a standard 2.4-liter, I4, 162-horsepower engine that achieves 19-mpg in the city and 26-mpg on the highway. A 4-speed automatic transmission with overdrive is standard. The GT is equipped with a standard 3.8-liter, V6, 265-horsepower engine that achieves 16-mpg in the city and 24-mpg on the highway. A 5-speed automatic transmission with overdrive is standard. 

The GS is well-equipped with 18-inch alloy wheels, air-conditioning and full power features, heated leather front seats and a power driver seat, Bluetooth, a rearview camera and a powerful Rockford Fosgate audio system The GT ups the ante with a sport-tuned suspension, xenon headlights, foglights, leather upholstery, heated front seats, automatic climate control and a wind deflector. Both models have a power-operated convertible soft top and stability control.

Engine	2.4L L4 DOHC 16-valve
HP (hp@rpm)	162 @ 6000
Torque (lb.ft@rpm)	162 @ 4000
Drivetrain	Front-wheel drive
Transmission	5-speed manual
Opt. Transmission #1	4-speed automated sequential with manual mode
Brakes	4-wheel disc
ABS	Std
Power Steering	Std
Front Suspension	Independent
Rear Suspension	Independent
Price                      $ 30,498