Ford 2011 Explorer

Engine Specifications
	3.5L V6
Drive type	Front-Wheel Drive (std.) / Intelligent 4WD (opt.)
Engine type	3.5L Twin independent Variable Camshaft Timing (TiVCT) V6
Transmission	6-speed automatic (std.) / 6-speed SelectShift Automatic (opt.)
Final drive ratio	3.16 (FWD) / 3.39 (4WD)
Horsepower (net @ rpm) (Ford projected)	283 @ 6500
Torque (lb.-ft @ rpm) (Ford projected)	252 @ 4100
Compression ratio	10.8: 1
Valve lifters	Direct acting mechanical bucket
Induction System	Naturally aspirated
Fuel delivery	Sequential multi-port electronic fuel injection
Exhaust	Quasi dual exhaust with chrome tips
Engine block type	Cast aluminum
Cylinder head material	Cast aluminum

Chassis Specifications
Front suspension	MacPherson strut front suspension with 32mm front stabilizer bar
Front shocks	Gas-pressurized twin tube
Rear suspension	Multi-link independent rear suspension with 22mm rear stabilizer bar
Rear shocks	Gas-pressurized twin tube
Brakes	Power 4-wheel disc with Anti-lock Braking System (ABS)
Steering	Electronic Power-Assisted Steering (EPAS)

Towing Specifications
Optional Class III Trailer Tow Package
Configuration	Axle Ratio	GCWR	Max Loaded Trailer Weight
3.5L TiVCT V6 FWD	3.16	9920	5000
3.5L TiVCT V6 4WD	3.39	10096	5000

Price ; $28,995

Engine Rad Run Hot

Engine rad run hot is problem when the engine overheat because over load, carrying boat, sport o or something heavy. This problem is one of chronic overheating - that is the engine overheats. The red temperature light may come on chronically, the engine temp light may be permanently over to the right hand side or it may be worse in that the rad either needs coolant and antifreeze fluid replenishment all the time or worse yet the rad "boils over".
Simply put the thermostat impedes water flow when the engine is cold, to allow for faster warm and heating of cold engines.The cooling systems thermostat is in closed position when cool and opens up to allow for cooling system water circulation when warmed up. The engine will not "blow up" if the cooling system thermostat is removed.

Your Car Smoke

You can diagnose problem in your car by the color smoke, and maybe any problem if you start your car in the morning and the exhaust smoking.
- If your exhaust is  water vapor,or blowing white smoke do not be alarmed as that is normal in cold weather, but it should not continue as the car warms up. If it continues to smoke when the car is warm it may be time to trouble shoot. It is possible your transmission fluid is entering the valve intake manifold through the vacuum modulator, which means the vacuum modulator will need to be replaced. Another possibility is the cycle head gasket is cracked or worn and will need to be replaced or resurfaced. Finally you could have a cracked engine block that needs to be replaced.

- If black smoke may or may not be accompanied by other symptoms like a rough running engine or an engine that misfires. Check your carburetor choke to see if it is closed and needs replacement. It could also be a leaky fuel injector that needs to be replaced or something as easy as a dirty air filter that needs to be changed out. Finally your mechanic can check to see if your distributor cap and rotor ignition module are bad and need to be replaced.

- If your car is smoking gray or blue smoke when you start it up in the morning and the smoke doesn't disappear after the car is warmed up there are a few possible causes. Your engine pistons could be worn and need to be replaced or your engine valve or engine valve seals may be worn and need to be replaced. None of these are do-it-yourself projects, but it should give you a starting place to start looking with your mechanic.

- If you have the additional car symptom of burning more oil than normal you will likely notice when your oil is low in between oil changes. You may or may not notice that your engine is a little less powerful as a result. The cause could be your PVC system is not working right and your mechanic will need to replace the PCV valve. It is also a good idea to have your mechanic check your engine compression to determine the condition of your engine.

How to Change Out Your Brake Pads

Braking is the single most important action that your car performs. It doesn't matter how fast your car can accelerate in however many seconds. A beast of a machine that can do 0-60mph in less than 4 seconds can be the most awesome way to put yourself into a wall if your brakes don't work properly. As important as this function is, our brakes sometimes fail, usually due to neglect.
In order to make sure that your brakes always work, you must maintain maximum friction pad depth to insure full performance of the braking system. In other words, you have to change your brake pads. Before you change them, you need to know what kind of brakes you have. There are two different types of braking systems: disc brakes and drum brakes. Both have their advantages and disadvantages, but we won't get into that. You just need to know that, on most cars, disc brakes are on the front and drum brakes are on the back. And since 90% of the brake pads that you'll ever change in your life will be on the front; that will be our area of focus.
Disc brakes are the most effective system for stopping a vehicle. They utilize a caliper to apply the brake pads on either side of the rotor to halt wheel motion. Unless blocked by wheel rims, you can see them through the spokes on your wheels. This is the first way that you can tell if you need to do a brake reline. If the pads are less than 1/4 inch thick, you'll need to replace them soon. If they're less than 1/8 inch thick, get out the tools right then and there. The other way to tell that you need to reline your brakes is by listening to them. Noise-making devices are built into the pads to let you know when they need changing. If you hear a screeching sounds when you apply the brakes, you're due for a reline. If it sounds more like metal scraping metal, you've probably already damaged your rotor and need to replace the pads immediately if not the rotor as well.
First, you need a basic tool kit, a tire iron, a jack and jack stands and new brake pads. Consult your owner's manual on what kind your vehicle needs. Once you have all of those things, we can begin.

1. Park your car on flat, smooth ground, preferably in the shade. This procedure will take a while.
2. Once it is in park with the parking brake on, block off the tires and loosen the lug nuts on your wheels with the tire iron. Don't take the lugs nuts all of the way off.
3. Jack up your car and move the jack stands into place. Release the car slowly off of the jack and onto the jack stands. Make sure that they are in good condition and working properly. Your hands will be under the car. Do this for both sides so that you can change both front brake pads without having to jack up the car twice. The front end is what we're after, so make sure both jack stands are set to equal heights and focused at the front of the vehicle.
4. Once the car is up, remove the wheels. Work on one wheel at a time and use the other as a reference to ensure a proper rebuild. The caliper is designed to squeeze the brake pads against the rotor in order to create friction and halt motion. The brake pads hover on either side of the metal plate. They attach to the inside of the caliper with either clips, bolts or both. The rotor is the shiny metal disc that you should be able to see yourself in. If the surface of the rotor is not even vaguely shiny, it should be serviced or replaced.
5. Remove the bolts holding the caliper in place. Slide it out and away from the rotor gently. Now inspect the inside of the caliper. The pads will be held in place by a bolt or a series of clips. Remove the bolts, or clips, and remove the pads. Inspect the pads for excessive wearing to help you define the amount of wear on the rotor. If they're worn all the way to the bolt, look for excessive scarring and scoring on the rotor. Run your fingernails along the surface of the rotor, careful to make sure that it's not still hot. If the rotor has any grooves in it at all, it must be replaced. If you're short on money, a mechanic can "turn" the motor for you; this is shaving off the metal until it's once again smooth and shiny. However, this is not recommended because it reduces the rotors thermal capacity and may shorten your brakes lifespan. If your rotor is fine, let's move on.
6. Remove the pads from the caliper. Use a small amount of grease to lubricate the BACK of the new brake pads. This grease goes between the metal plate that attached to the caliper and the back of the pads. If you skip this, you'll hear an unearthly screeching every time you apply the brakes. Once you've lubed the back of the pad, attach it and the metal plate back to the caliper.
7. Now, you pretty much just put everything back. Be sure to gently replace the parts, as the rotor and other parts of your braking system are semi-sensitive.

Brake relining can be one of the single most important pieces of maintenance that you can provide to your vehicle. If you're unsure of how to complete this procedure correctly, take it to a professional. As I said at the outset, braking is the single most important action that your car performs. Proper replacement of your braking systems components is essential to avoiding emergency roadside assistance.
By Brock Frye

Mitsubishi Eclipse Spyder 2011

GS Sport is equipped with a standard 2.4-liter, I4, 162-horsepower engine that achieves 19-mpg in the city and 26-mpg on the highway. A 4-speed automatic transmission with overdrive is standard. The GT is equipped with a standard 3.8-liter, V6, 265-horsepower engine that achieves 16-mpg in the city and 24-mpg on the highway. A 5-speed automatic transmission with overdrive is standard. 

The GS is well-equipped with 18-inch alloy wheels, air-conditioning and full power features, heated leather front seats and a power driver seat, Bluetooth, a rearview camera and a powerful Rockford Fosgate audio system The GT ups the ante with a sport-tuned suspension, xenon headlights, foglights, leather upholstery, heated front seats, automatic climate control and a wind deflector. Both models have a power-operated convertible soft top and stability control.

Engine	2.4L L4 DOHC 16-valve
HP (hp@rpm)	162 @ 6000
Torque (lb.ft@rpm)	162 @ 4000
Drivetrain	Front-wheel drive
Transmission	5-speed manual
Opt. Transmission #1	4-speed automated sequential with manual mode
Brakes	4-wheel disc
ABS	Std
Power Steering	Std
Front Suspension	Independent
Rear Suspension	Independent
Price                      $ 30,498

New 2011 Honda CR-Z Sport Hybrid Coupe

CR-Z is powered by a 1.5-liter i-VTEC engine with Honda’s compact and lightweight Integrated Motor Assist (IMA) hybrid-electric system. The two-passenger CR-Z introduces a new three-mode drive system that allows the driver to select between Sport, Econ (Economy) and Normal driving modes.
The futuristically styled interior offers a high-tech appearance and ergonomically intuitive controls. Instrument panel meters illuminate with a three-dimensional, vibrant blue color theme resulting in a multi-layered appearance. The upper portion of the dashboard extends toward the driver to provide a wrap-around cockpit environment. A mid-ship console behind the front seats optimizes cargo space.
The two trim levels include the well-equipped CR-Z and the feature-rich CR-Z EX. A six-speed manual transmission is standard equipment and a Continuously Variable Transmission (CVT) is available. Standard features on the CR-Z include Vehicle Stability Assist, an AM/FM/CD/USB audio system with six speakers, automatic climate control, power windows and door locks, remote entry, cruise control, and more. The CR-Z EX adds, High-Intensity Discharge (HID) Headlights with Auto-On/Off, fog lights, a 360-Watt AM/FM/CD premium audio system with seven speakers including subwoofer, Bluetooth® HandsFreeLink®, perforated leather-wrapped steering wheel, and more. The CR-Z EX is available with the Honda Satellite-Linked Navigation System with voice recognition.
The system delivers a combined peak output of 122 horsepower at 6,000 rpm and 128 lb-ft. of torque2 at 1,000 to 1,500 rpm (123 lb-ft on CVT-equipped models). Preliminary fuel economy estimates are anticipated to result in a rating of 36 city/38 highway miles per gallon on CVT-equipped models. Manual transmission models are anticipated to achieve an EPA-estimated fuel economy rating of 31 city/37 highway miles per gallon3. The CR-Z is rated as an Advanced Technology Partial Zero Emissions Vehicle (AT-PZEV) in states that adhere to California Air Resource Board (CARB) ZEV standards (EPA Tier 2, Bin 2 in all states).
The front MacPherson strut suspension and rear H-shaped torsion beam suspension settings are tuned to provide a sporty, solid and dynamic driving experience. All models are equipped with 16x6-inch aluminum wheels with 195/55 R16 86V tires. Accessory 17x7 alloy wheels with 205/45R17 84V tires with are available. The standard anti-lock braking system (ABS) with electronic brake distribution (EBD) uses ventilated front discs and solid rear discs.

Chassis
Brakes	standard anti-lock braking system (ABS) with electronic brake distribution (EBD)
Wheels	16x6-inch aluminum wheels
Drivetrain
Transmission	six-speed manual transmission is standard equipment and a Continuously Variable Transmission (CVT) is available
Engine
Type:	1.5-liter i-VTEC
Horsepower @ RPM	122 horsepower at 6,000 rpm
Engine & Transmission
Torque lb-ft (Nm) at RPM:	128 lb-ft.
Exterior
Headlights	High-Intensity Discharge (HID) Headlights
Interior
Steering Wheel	perforated leather-wrapped steering wheel
Other Upgrades
	Advanced Compatibility Engineering™ (ACE™)
Performance
Fuel Economy	36 city/38 highway miles per gallon

Price                $19,200 - $23,210

2011 Mercedes-Benz SLS AMG

The new Mercedes-Benz SLS AMG uses the familiar 6.2-liter AMG V-8, set back behind the front axle. Here it will produce 563 hp and 479 lb-ft of torque, an increase of 38 hp and 15 pound-feet compared to the current V-8. AMG claims that the handbuilt engines have more than 120 new parts, largely in the intake and exhaust system, the dry sump lubrication system, and the crank mechanism. The engine is also lighter (only 454 lbs), due in part to the use of aluminum instead of steel for the crankcase and the engine bolts, forged rather than cast pistons, and a magnesium intake manifold. The dry sump lubrication system uses a remote reservoir, eliminating the oil pan and allowing for a lower profile.

The engine's power is transferred to a rear-mounted, 7-speed dual clutch transaxle via a carbon-fiber driveshaft enclosed within an aluminum torque tube. The use of a rear transaxle helps the car achieve a 48/52 front/rear weight distribution.

The chassis uses aluminum double wishbones at all four wheels and composite brakes--or optional ceramic composite brakes (with telltale gold calipers)--to help keep the SLS on the road. Massive, 265/35 R19 front and 295/30 R20 rear Michelin Pilot Super Sports tires provide the grip--as much as 1.2g in lateral acceleration.

6.2-liter, 32-valve DOHC V-8
Power: 563 hp @ 6800 rpm
Torque: 479 lb-ft @ 4750 rpm
7200 rpm max engine speed

Transmission: 7-speed dual-clutch automatic
Drive: rear-wheel

Wheels: 9.5 x 19 inch front, 11.0 x 20 inch rear
Tire size: 265/35 R19 front, 295/30 R 20 rear

Length: 183 in
Width: 76 in
Wheelbase: 105.5 in
Track front/rear: 66/65 in
Curb weight 3571 lbs

0-62 mph: 3.8 seconds
Top speed: 196 mph
Fuel economy: 18 mpg (city/hwy combined on Euro cycle)

On sale: spring 2010

nearly $500,000,

Cadillac Escalade ESV 2010

Like all other Escalades, the ESV is motivated by a 6.2 Liter Vortec V8 that has the distinction of being the first mass produced non-overhead valve engine to feature variable valve timing, a feature which contributes to the engine’s substantial power output of 403 horsepower and 417 lb.-feet of torque. Transmitting power is a 6-speed Hyrda-Matic automatic transmission with driver shift control and a towing mode.

The Escalade ESV array is accessible in four trims: Base, Luxury, Premium, and Platinum. The Platinum version of the Escalade symbolizes the peak of Cadillac distinction with the entire package of lavish inner features and a pleasing exterior with a polish that makes it a fine successor. Inside, the seats are leather exteriors in black or a color called cashmere adorns the Escalade inside, while Aniline leather takes care of creating the stylish look of the Platinum border. A great deal of the inside is electric powered, including heat and coolness, even the cup holders. fresh external colors for the 2010 Escalade ESV array comprise of Silver Lining, Galaxy Gray, Celestial Blue and last but not least, Black Ice.

Innovative features included with the new 2010 Escalade ESV are a USB port located in the middle console, a steering column that locks, a Platinum type inner clock that is now on all standard ESV's, face side thorax airbags, a improved parking brake discharge, and a battery efficient approach that turns the power off as soon as the battery's energy becomes low owing to extensive feature usage. The internal door motif also has received a renovation to provide better collision defense on the sides.

Price :

Invoice : $62,440

M SRP : $66,715